10:18 AM 12/3/98
epicurious

CRISPY TRADITIONAL POTATO PANCAKES 

Ever since I visited a tiny French village in the Ardeche where I tasted a "craque,"
an extraordinary crisp thin potato pancake as large as a plate, I have changed my
view of the taste of potato pancakes. For me they should be thin and crisp. This is
only possible if you squeeze out as much water as possible from the grated potato,
omit flour or matzah meal as fillers, and gently flatten the pancakes on a very hot
skillet. Although the taste of hand-grated potato latkes is superior to that of those
grated in the food processor, the difference is definitely marginal. So don't feel
guilty if you don't want to use elbow grease and cut your fingers.

2 pounds russet (baking) or Yukon Gold potatoes
1 medium onion
1/2 cup chopped scallions, including the green part
1 large egg, beaten
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Peel the potatoes and put in cold water. Using a grater or a food processor
coarsely grate the potatoes and onions. Place together in a fine-mesh strainer or tea
towel and squeeze out all the water over a bowl. The potato starch will settle to the
bottom; reserve that after you have carefully poured off the water.

2. Mix the potato and onion with the potato starch. Add the scallions, egg, and salt
and pepper.

3. Heat a griddle or non-stick pan and coat with a thin film of vegetable oil. Take
about 2 tablespoons of the potato mixture in the palm of your hand and flatten as
best you can. Place the potato mixture on the griddle, flatten with a large spatula,
and fry for a few minutes until golden. Flip the pancake over and brown the other
side. Remove to paper towels to drain. Serve immediately. You can also freeze the
potato pancakes and crisp them up in a 350-degree oven at a later time.

Variation: If you want a more traditional and thicker pancake, you can add an extra
egg plus 1/3 cup of matzah meal to the batter.

Yield: about 2 dozen pancakes (P) 